Monday, October 26, 2015

A Day in Kaikoura

Health update before the good stuff.

I’m still alive! I guess things were a lot more dire than I initially thought. (Mom and Dad, just skip to the next paragraph.) I mean I knew a blood clot in my chest was not a good thing, but when you hear “pulmonary embolism” and start googling, it gets kind of terrifying. For instance, the CDC estimates that “sudden death is the first symptom in about 25% of people who have a pulmonary embolism”. Ho. Ly. Shit. And if you don’t drop dead immediately, it’s pretty much all downhill from there. I could even tell that from my day of getting scanned and tested. At first my chest only hurt when I was lying down so I felt totally normal sitting down for breakfast, but as the morning went on my chest started hurting just sitting in the waiting rooms. It got to the point where lying down for the CT was excruciating and I was almost unable to take the necessary deep breaths. Fortunately I was in a medical facility at that point, so I figured if something bad DID happen, help would be like two feet away. Except that it was just a doctor’s office and not actually a hospital, so I guess I still would’ve been f’ed.

Anyways, I had a follow-up appointment with my doctor last Thursday, and after getting me from the waiting room she put her hand on my shoulder and said, “I’m really happy to see you back here. You had us pretty worried last week. I prayed for you.” As my friend Katie said, when the doctor turns to God you know you’re not doing well! The doctor told me that I still probably have a partially collapsed lung and a blood clot, but it’s too soon to do another CT scan since they aren’t the greatest thing in the world for you. I’ll have to get one in January before I come home, though, to make sure that I’m fit to fly. The anticoagulants that I’m taking (and will be taking for the next 6 months) are slowly breaking down the clot, which is good, but as far as I know it’s still there! None of the doctors had a clear cut answer about how long it would take for the clot to go away and the lung to return to normal, so I guess it varies drastically between patients. (I can tell the lung isn’t back to normal when I try walking up even the slightest incline – immediate minor pain in half of my chest.) The doctor also said that I’m not supposed to run or do contact sports or anything because the clot might break free and start roaming around my chest, and that doesn’t seem like a good thing. So basically, for the first time ever, my doctor has told me to NOT exercise.

Oh yeah, and after 11 days I finally started pooping normally again. You try not having a good poop for a week and a half and tell me how YOU feel.

Upside from all of this? Buying travel insurance has finally paid off, AND I got some cool scans of my insides! Here, check out my heart.




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Back to my adventures in New Zealand!

Looking into Queen Charlotte Sound from Picton
After my day trip to Abel Tasman I took a bus back to Picton on 9/25. I had a couple hours to grab a coffee and sightsee on the waterfront before catching a train – the Coastal Pacific – to Kaikoura. I carefully planned my time in New Zealand so that I could take this trip, because the 25th was the first day of the season that it was running! I had a window seat on the ocean side – beautiful! I was sitting right behind a very friendly guy named Bruce. He was too friendly. He talked to me and the older couple behind me the entire 2.5 hours. I know I sound rude right now, but he LITERALLY (and yes, I actually mean it in this context) did not stop talking for longer than 30 seconds the entire time, except for when he went to the café car for a beverage. He was clearly smart and educated and chatty, but my god I wish there was an off button. I went to the open air car for a while to take pictures and escape, but after 30 minutes I was frozen so I went back to my seat. Bruce was standing in my row of seats and talking over the chairs to the couple seated behind me. Come on, man, just sit down and enjoy the scenery! There is no good way to tell someone to just stop talking, especially when they are just being nice. I tried to ignore him by birdwatching out the window, but he was persistent. Oh well, at least the scenery was nice.


We passed a massive seal colony just before Kaikoura – there were HUNDREDS of them hidden on the rocks! I also got a quick glimpse of what I think were spotted shags – they have crests, which is why I think that’s what they were. The views were amazing, and it was hard NOT to take pictures, which is why I now have hundreds of pictures to sort through. Fantastic.

When we got to Kaikoura I got picked up by Helen, the owner of The Dolphin Lodge hostel I was staying at. I think I liked that one as much as The Funky Green Voyager in Rotorua. This hostel was perfect for solo travelers because it was really easy to hang out and meet people. The larger hostels I’ve been in have had a lot more groups of people, so it’s more difficult to mingle, but Helen even said she tries to avoid booking groups because they detract from that dynamic, so that’s cool. I was in a 5-bed dorm which had a decent amount of space, there was a nice cozy area by a fireplace and a larger sitting area with windows on 3 sides with great views of the ocean and mountains. There was also a hot tub on the deck, which Helen was very diligent about opening up. I had such a nice time in the spas back in Rotorua that I was really looking forward to this hot tub.

There were already three guys in the hot tub when I went out, but they were all super nice and none of them actually knew each other beforehand! Harry was Irish and had worked in Australia for a couple years before ending up in New Zealand to travel for 9 months. Etienne was a French carpenter and had arrived in New Zealand only a week before, but he was staying for something like 9 months to a year and was going to look for construction work. Andre was German and was finishing up his 5-week visit before heading to Sydney for a week. I chatted with them for a while, and they invited me out for drinks later. The difference between biologists and non-biologists: I heard “drinks later” and thought that meant 6 or 7pm. They weren’t actually planning on leaving the hostel until 8 or 9pm. I’d been going to bed around 10pm most nights, and they didn’t want to LEAVE until 9pm?? Oh boy. But I put my big girl pants on and had a fun night out. A few other people from the hostel joined us, so we had a decent-sized group down at the only open pub in Kaikoura. It was a really fun night!

I had planned to get up early and walk to the seal colony on the peninsula, but I got a bit of a later start than anticipated. Of course it was supposed to drizzle/rain for most of that day, so when I did finally get up I had to get all decked out in my rain gear. The guys were awake when I left, but they wanted to stay in and take it easy. The walk to the peninsula was a lot longer than I expected. It was supposed to take almost an hour without stops, but I was poking along and taking pictures, so it took well over an hour. It was worth it, though – I saw some cool birds along the way (Australasian gannet, white-faced heron, spur-winged plovers, and several variable oystercatchers), some cute little seals by the road, and I stopped for what turned out to be the best ham and cheese croissant sandwich I’ve ever had in my life. Maybe it was the hangover talking, but it was the perfect combination of gooey cheesy goodness and fresh flakey croissant. That thing gave me the strength to walk for 8 miles that day. In the rain.





The seal colony was awesome – there weren’t as many seals as in the one we passed on the train, but there were plenty and they were right next to the trail and parking lot, or in the case of one tiny pup, walking through it. There was a volunteer there to keep people a safe distance away from the seals, which was a good thing, too, because people can be STUPID around wildlife, despite the half a dozen signs warning people to stay at least three meters away. It always seems that parents are the ones to ignore these by making their kids go and stand by the dangerous wildlife. How about you first!


Anyways, from the seal colony I walked up the trail along the cliffs and got some BEAUTIFUL views of the coast and the ocean. There were a dozen different shades of blue (or was it 50 shades?), with the sun lighting up the beaches below. There were a bunch more seals that covered the beach and the rocks, with lots of seagulls flying around. I walked down to the breeding grounds on the beach and saw a bunch of white-fronted terns, more gulls, and some absolutely stunning views, even with the clouds and drizzle. It was hard to convince myself to start heading back to town because it was such a beautiful place with some amazing wildlife. I definitely wish I had stayed in Kaikoura longer.


White-fronted terns



White-faced heron with several Variable oystercatchers


The walk back to the hostel was way more difficult than walk there; up to that point I was feeling alright, but as soon as I started walking back I noticed my legs were KILLING me. It took at least an hour to walk back, if not more. When I got there the guys were all still on the couch right where I left them hours earlier, haha! I had a little bit of time before my train to Christchurch, so I changed, packed up my stuff, said my goodbyes, and made plans to meet up with Harry and Etienne in Christchurch (they were both heading there that afternoon as well, but Etienne was taking the bus and Harry was hitching a ride with a couple in the hostel). Helen gave me a ride back to the train station, and then I enjoyed a short but beautiful (and much more peaceful) journey to Christchurch.

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